Browsing by Subject "morphodynamics"
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Item Open Access Convexity, Concavity, and Human Agency in Large-scale Coastline Evolution(2014) Ells, Kenneth DanielCoherent, large-scale shapes and patterns are evident in many landscapes, and evolve according to climate and hydrological forces. For large-scale, sandy coastlines, these shapes depend on wave climate forcing. The wave climate is influenced by storm patterns, which are expected to change with the warming climate, and the associated changes in coastline shape are likely to increase rates of shoreline change in many places. Humans have historically responded to coastline change by manipulating various coastal processes, consequently affecting long-term, large-scale coastline shape change. Especially in the context of changing climate forcing and increasing human presence on the coast, the interaction of the human and climate-driven components of large-scale coastline evolution are becoming increasingly intertwined.
This dissertation explores how climate shapes coastlines, and how the effects of humans altering the landscape interact with the effects of a changing climate. Because the coastline is a spatially extended, nonlinear system, I use a simple numerical modeling approach to gain a basic theoretical understanding of its dynamics, incorporating simplified representations of the human components of coastline change in a previously developed model for the physical system.
Chapter 1 addresses how local shoreline stabilization affects the large scale morphology of a cuspate-cape type of coastline, and associated large-scale patterns of shoreline change, in the context of changing wave climate, comparing two fundamentally different approaches to shoreline stabilization: beach nourishment (in which sediment is added to a coastline at a long-term rate that counteracts the background erosion), and hard structures (including seawalls and groynes). The results show that although both approaches have surprisingly long-range effects with spatially heterogeneous distributions, the pattern of shoreline changes attributable to a single local stabilization effort contrast greatly, with nourishment producing less erosion when the stabilization-related shoreline change is summed alongshore.
Chapter 2 presents new basic understanding of the dynamics that produce a contrasting coastline type: convex headland-spit systems. Results show that the coastline shapes and spatially-uniform erosion rates emerge from two way influences between the headland and spit components, and how these interactions are mediated by wave climate, and the alongshore scale of the system. Chapter 2 also shows that one type of wave-climate change (altering the proportion of `high-angle' waves) leads to changes in coastline shape, while another type (altering wave-climate asymmetry) tends to reorient a coastline while preserving its shape.
Chapter 3 builds on chapter 2, by adding the effects of human shoreline stabilization along such a convex coastline. Results show that in the context of increasing costs for stabilization, abandonment of shoreline stabilization at one location triggers a cascade of abandonments and associated coastline-shape changes, and that both the qualitative spatial patterns and alongshore speed of the propagating cascades depends on the relationship between patterns of economic heterogeneity and the asymmetry of the wave-climate change--although alterations to the proportion of high-angle waves in the climate only affects the time scales for coupled morphologic/economic cascades.
Item Open Access Investigating Regional Patterns of Shoreline Change(2009) Lazarus, EliMy doctoral work stems from an original motivation to understand more closely why some areas of sandy coastlines erode and others accrete<—>an intriguing fundamental question and one of societal relevance wherever human coastal infrastructure exists. What are the physical processes driving shoreline change, and over what spatial and temporal scales are they manifest? If forces driving the littoral system change, how does the shoreline respond? Can we attribute observed patterns of shoreline change to a particular process?
Recent novel numerical shoreline-evolution modeling demonstrated that wave-driven gradients in alongshore sediment transport could produce self-organized, emergent features on spatial scales from sand waves to large-scale capes [Ashton et al., 2001], introducing a new theoretical perspective to the cross-shore-oriented considerations of the coastal scientific community. The unexpected model results inspired fresh hypotheses about shoreline pattern formation and the forcing mechanisms behind them.
One overarching hypothesis was that under regimes of high- and low-angle deep-water incident waves, alongshore shoreline perturbations grow or diffuse away, respectively. To test the hypothesis we looked for a correlation between shoreline curvature (showing perturbations to a nearly straight coastline) and shoreline change in observed measurements. High-resolution topographic lidar surveys of the North Carolina Outer Banks from 1996<–>2006 allowed robust, quantitative comparisons between shoreline surveys spanning tens of kms. In Chapter 1 [Lazarus and Murray, 2007] we report that over the last decade, at multi-km scales along the barrier islands, convex-seaward promontories tended to erode and concave-seaward embayments accrete<—>a pattern of diffusion consistent with the smoothing effects of alongshore-transport gradients driven by a low-angle wave climate. Why then, after a decade or more of smoothing, do plan-view bumps in the shoreline still persist? In Chapter 2 [Lazarus et al., in review] we compile evidence suggesting that (a) a framework of paleochannels may control the areas of persistent multi-km-scale shoreline convexity that (b) in turn drive decadal-term transient changes in shoreline morphology by (c) affecting gradients in wave-driven alongshore sediment transport.
In Chapter 3, a third investigation of large-scale coastal behavior, we explore an existing premise that shoreline change on a sandy coast is a self-affine signal wherein patterns of changes are scale-invariant, perhaps suggesting that a single process operates across the scales. Applying wavelet analysis<—>a mathematical technique involving scaled filter transforms<—>we confirm that a power law fits the average variance of shoreline change at alongshore scales spanning approximately three orders of magnitude (5<–>5000 m). The power law itself does not necessarily indicate a single dominant driver; beach changes across those scales likely result from a variety of cross-shore and alongshore hydrodynamic processes. A paired modeling experiment supports the conclusion that the power relationship is not an obvious function of wave-driven alongshore sediment transport alone.
Our tests of theory against field observations are middle steps in pattern-to-process attribution; they fit into a larger body of coastal morphodynamic research that in time may enable shoreline-change prediction. Present hydrodynamic models are still too limited in spatial and temporal scope to accommodate the extended scales at which large morphological changes occur, but more integrated quantitative models linking bathymetry, wave fields, and geologic substrate are underway and will set the next course of questions for the discipline.